Encounter with Moran, the Rhino

Paradise Freebie PART IV

On day four we started early at 7am after a hearty breakfast. We met Pius Ole Pulum, the warden in charge of Mara West reserve. On this day, we had vowed to view rhinos that had eluded us for the entire visit. It was not easy though considering the small number and the vast grassland. It’s like searching for a needle in a hey-sack.

“We have 28 indigenous black rhinos in the reserve.” He narrated. “The number has been rising steadily due to enhanced patrols and we have managed to keep poachers away. The last time we lost a rhino to poachers was six years ago.”

By the end of the poaching era in the 80s, there were fewer than 10 black rhinos in the Mara. Now thanks to the regular patrols, their numbers have increased. We obtained special permission to accompany the rangers on the afternoon patrol. The Mara plains stretch a lush green into the horizon after the usual rainfall in April.

Herds of buffaloes, Maasai giraffes, gazelles and other plains animals filled the grassland with elephants browsing on the shrubs. Two hours later and no rhino in sight. Daniel Meli, the ranger scanned the visitas with binoculas. It felt like we were the only people on earth. The plains stretched as far as the eye could see but there was no rhino to be seen.

Fatigue set in and I could not resist dozing until my peace was interrupted by Meli’s sudden cry, “there”. It could only mean one thing. A rhino had been spotted.

We raced across the plains. The rhino must have been two or so kilometers away only possible to see with powerful binoculars.

Fifteen minutes later, we came face to face with Moran, the 25-year old male as he stepped out of the thick scrub munching away. The mega herbivore went about his business uninterrupted as our cameras went to work.

We spent time with Moran with a herd of elephants close by. “Moran doesn’t like to be followed for long” cautioned Meli. Sure enough, the huge animal turned around as the cameras rolled. He must have been disturbed by our shuffling and constant camera clicks. With a grunt and a short run, he sent us scampering away.

We had seen it all. The previous day, we were rewarded to feast our eyes on the largest assembly of elephants and other savannah animals that I have ever seen. It was the mighty Mara at its best. We couldn’t get luckier.

But Mara is cat country and one of the wonders of the modern world. On our way to the camp, in a moment of serendipity, in the last glow of the sinking sun, the spotted cat slinked on an anthill. She just gave us a nonchalant stare. She was heavily pregnant.

A dik dik flinted past us and disappeared into the bush. Seemed like she was fleeing from some unseen enemies. A little more than an hour later, we were back at camp. Feeling exhausted and spent, we settled for canned food and after a quick shower, retired to bed early. It had been a long and rewarding day.