Friday, February 8, 2008

Exploring the Virgin Parts of the Mara

by Nyambosa G. Maroa

River Migori flows like it has for many years. The river that traverses the western side of Maasai Mara game reserve is like so many rivers in the wilderness that give life to the park and without which the great diversity of plants and animal life would cease to exist. Its brown waters cascade over boulders hidden under its cloak as it makes its way to meet the Kuja further near Macalder and together they continue the great journey to Lake Victoria.

Today we decided to approach the great park from a different route to explore fresh grounds. It’s not until noon that we set camp near the river banks. The reason is partly to watch life in the river that is teaming with hippos and crocodiles. If luck is with us we shall also see other animals since this is a popular watering spot for kongonis, kudus, wildbeests and many other animals. From my tent I can see the crocodile on the opposite bank, lying motionless, so well blended with the water washed rocks. Had it not been for the keen eyes of Keboye, our driver, it would have been difficult to spot it.

A while later there is some loud whooshing in the river. We all scramble out of our tents to see a lone hippo churning the otherwise still water as it snorted sending geyser like steam in the air. It had just re-entered the water to cool itself after an afternoon nap at the sandy banks. Our oohs and aahs wake another hippo and it also plunges into the Migori waters. Sensing danger, the duo disappears to the deep end and only makes momentary appearance to take in fresh air.

After taking our lunch of steak roasted in an energy saving jiko, we head out for an afternoon game drive. A herd of antelopes graze in the open as we approach. We stop to take pictures. The beautiful animals watch us suspiciously as they make grunting noise to alert their own kind. We decide to move on to let them have their peace.

We stroll along the river in the hot afternoon sun until we come to a shady spot where we decide to rest and get the feel of the sand and sound of the water. It’s lined with doum palms and we sit by the water’s edge enjoying the camaraderie on the stones kopjes smoothed by eons of water movement. The river is a good attraction for the animals, and the whole place is really quite peaceful because for many years it was difficult to get to, and there is a total absence of any industry. In terms of vegetation there is a mixture of grass, thorn trees, riverne forest and acacia.

By this time, we’re starting to get contented with this peaceful setting when we spot two buffaloes further down stream come in for their drink. The excitement is palpable. We stay motionless to avoid attracting their attention. We deem ourselves lucky, considering that we had come here not expecting to see any of the big five as they are rare in this part of the park. After having their fill, the duo went back the way they had come.


“Okay folks, we now know there is more to watch than just antelopes and hippos,” announces Dan, our guide for the day. “Sometimes we get visitors from the east. I suspect the duo of buffaloes is among them.”

Much of the park from this side is still inaccessible by road as very few visitors use this side. But this is the beauty of it because it is un-spoilt. Everything still remains in its natural peaceful state. There are no human developments here.

Soon we have to retreat to camp. We trudge through to get back as the sun gently set far in the west in a soft golden disk.

Satisfied, we settle down to a candle lit dinner while chatting and reflecting on events of the day.

The lodges in this part of the reserve for the visitors include, Pre-Mara in Kehancha, Gilly Hotel in Migori, Border and Point in Sirare.

About the Author:

Nyambosa G. Maroa writes exclusively for Safariwagon located at www.safariwagon.blogspot.com.

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