Excussion to God's Forest in Kakamega

by: Nyambosa G. Maroa

Kakamega town is busy in the early morning. Rural women arrive with baskets laden with fruits and vegetables to sell at the market. Kakamega is expanding fast, once lined with single-story buildings; it is now a busy metropolis of multi-storied commercial offices.

The town is well endowed with beautiful tourist class modern hotels; the most popular being Golf Hotel, Savona Resort, Sheywe Guest House to name but a few.

Golf Hotel under the management of Kenya Tourist Board boasts of a spacious landscaped compound complete with a swimming pool and a nine-hole golf course. We arrive just in time for lunch and when we are shown to the dining room, my appetite whetted. Lunch is a five course gourmet meal. The sumptuous meal of grilled goat ribs accompanied with rice and expertly made ugali is irresistible. The heavy meal is crowned with ice cream and banana in cinnamon. We now feel fully charged to proceed to Kakamega Forest, the main destination of this trip.

About 15 km on the Kakamega-Webuye road, we turn onto the side road that leads directly into the forest. The conditions change abruptly as the natural setting of what was once a sprawling forest canopy spreading from central Kenya all the way to West Africa comes to life. Kakamega forest is one of the few such indigenous forests remaining in its original condition. It’s been designated as a game reserve to protect it from marauding commercial timber harvesters.

There is an interesting tree project started by Kenya Forest Research Institute that specializes in planting of indigenous tree seedlings for free distribution to the local community. Thousands of seedlings have been distributed and planted to provide for fuel wood, act as a carbon sink and reduce the pressure on the protected forest. Mr. Mulongo, the forest warden is our guide today and with him colleague Jotham. Leading the way, Jotham takes us through the cool forest canopy and surprisingly the trails are easy to maneuver through. Along the way we notice recent footprints which according to Mulongo belong to the forest deer, a species that is indigenous to Kakamega forest.

“Look” cries Winston while pointing to a huge Elgon Teak just ahead of us. “We’ve got company.” True to his word, there is a colony of colossus monkeys busy foraging in the branches and bushy creepers. We all pause to witness these beautiful creatures go about their routine. They look stunning in their fine white and black coats that can put our groomed supermodels to shame. They show very little interest in us.

“Are there other species of monkeys in the forest?” I ask Jotham who is now busy scanning the nearby bush for signs of other forest creatures.

“Yes, there are plenty of baboons in here. But they keep on moving from one point to another in search of food. Sometimes they invade neighboring farms and course havoc especially during dry season.” As if by cue, the forest shook with the ruffling of tree branches. Apparently Jotham has disturbed a lone baboon that’s sitting in a nearby tree. As we all rush to catch a glimpse of the action, two more baboons clamber to safety. The colossus also get alarmed and start making shrieking noises to warn their own kind of imminent danger. It’s time to move on.

Finally, Jotham leads us to an open clearing where we are surprised to find well maintained camping huts. “For visitors who want to stay for a day or two, we allow them to bring their own camping gear and food. People love serene and quiet atmosphere in this camp. It’s very popular with hikers who would like to mingle with nature and meditate,” he concludes.

It is getting late and we’re not prepared to camp. On our way out we walk through another path overgrown with bush. Above, a lone forest owl flaps away shyly. We are now approaching the tarmac and yet to a stranger it appears like it is miles away. When we finally make it to our car, it is 5.30 pm and it is beginning to get dark in the forest.

As we head back to the hotel, there is that inner piece that I’m experiencing right now. “The air here is medicinal,” Mulongo says as if reading my mind. I can’t agree more.

About the author:

Nyambosa G. Maroa writes exclusively for Safari Wagon located at www.safariwagon.blogspot.com.