Samburu: Where The Sun Is Always Faithful

by: Felix Koskei

Samburu National Reserve in northern Kenya is one of Kenya’s most interesting national reserves. Samburu is about 330 km north of Mt. Kenya and lies in a warm low land occupied by the Samburu tribe. This reserve is relatively small but has so much to offer.

This reserve lies north of the equator and here, you will find some of the animals that are only found in the northern hemisphere. These are the Reticulated Giraffe, the endangered Grevy Zebra, the Somali Ostrich and the long-necked Gerenuk. In addition to this one finds the long-horned Beisa Oryx in Samburu.

In spite of the reserve been small, you will be astonished at how many animals you will see in a single game drive. Life in Samburu obviously evolves around the Uaso Nyiro River which is a seasonal river. During the dry seasons, all the animals gather around the winding river in search of water. Samburu also has large herds of elephant and a big groups of impala. One also finds lions, leopards, cheetahs, waterbucks, guinea fowls, mongooses, gazelles, elands and a wide species of bird life.

Due to its low altitude, Samburu is hot most of the year. Even in July when most of the country is experiencing low temperatures, the sun will still shine in Samburu. Most of the lodges and tented camps are located along the Uaso Nyiro River. These are the Larsen’s Tented Camp, Samburu Game Lodge, Samburu Serena Lodge, Samburu Intrepids Tented Camp and Samburu Sopa Lodge. There are also several camp sites.

Samburu is one of the must-see national reserves on your visit to Kenya. One can get to Samburu by daily schedule flights or by road. It is possible to depart Nairobi in the morning and make it for lunch at Samburu Nat. Reserve. The first 280 km from Nairobi is tarmac road. The dust road begins at Isiolo Town.

Samburu has a beautiful landscape with rolling hills sparsely spread across the reserve.

While at Samburu, it would be prudent for you to visit one of the local Samburu villages. This gives you an interesting insight of the cultural lives of the Samburu folks. Their cultural beliefs are similar to those of the Masais who are in the same tribal grouping. They still live in mud houses and still depend on their cattle and goats as the main source of livelihood. They dress in beautiful red outfits and always carry a club and probably a spear during their daily chores.

In the summer, Samburu is pretty dry, hot and dusty. Short pants and light clothing is advised. Due to the hot sun, always carry with you a hat and a pair of sun glasses. Most of the lodges and camps in Samburu have swimming pools, so it will be a good idea to carry with you your swimming suit and a packet of sun-cream.

About The Author Felix Koskei is the editor of http://www.safariafrika.com and an experienced tour operator offering safari vacations to various African countries. Travel Connections has provided hundreds of travelers with highly personalized safari packages. For more details visit Travel Connections Ltd http://www.safariafrika.com.

Places of Interest in Morocco

by: Tina Andlaw

PART II

Today we continue with the final part of Tina Andlaw's piece on "Places of Interest in Morocco".

Hassan Mosque: You will see the towering 50 metre minaret of the Hassan Mosque from many parts of the city. Each façade of the minaret is intricately patterned with different motifs on each face.

Mausoleum of Mohammed V: The mausoleum was inaugurated in 1967. Located opposite the Hassan Mosque, it is one of the great monuments of modern Morocco. The deceased king lies in a white onyx tomb, surrounded by royal guards, while and hundreds of Moroccans pay homage each day.

The Medina: This medina was created by Muslim Andalucian refugees from Badajoz, Spain. It was essentially the first “seed” of the city until the arrival of the French in 1912 who began creating the new town.

Archeology Museum: Here you can find a collection of Roman bronze figures, dating from the first and second centuries and recovered from Volubilis. Also other artifacts from Phoenician, Carthagian and Roman settlements throughout Morocco are to be viewed here. Open 9.00-11.30 and 2.30-5.30, closed Tuesdays.

Around Rabat

Volubilis: Located between Rabat and Fez, it was built on top of a previous Carthaginian city and dates back to around the 3rd century BC, being a centre of Roman administration in Africa. Volubilis was inhabited until the 18th century, when it was carelessly demolished to provide building materials for the palaces of Moulay Ismail in Meknes. This meant a great deal of Morocco’s Roman architectural heritage was lost. However, today the ruins include some well-preserved columns, a basilica, a triumphal arch and about 30 high beautiful mosaics.

Casablanca: This is a huge, busy European style port city and has attracted much immigration from the Moroccan countryside. People are modern with little sign of traditional dress or modesty. The old town is small but similar to all the other bazaars found in Morocco. The impressive Hassan ll Mosque is the 3rd largest religious monument in the World, with fantastic views over the Atlantic Ocean.

Temara: Lies on the coast, some 13Km from Rabat. It is a favourite weekend spot for city dwellers. Temara has a sandy beach, along with many hotels, nightclubs, restaurants, a zoo and other leisure facilities to entertain visitors.

Tangier

Tangier was once a playground for the rich and famous seeking a fashionable café culture as well as a tax haven. When Spain relinquished Tangier back to Morocco in 1960, its duty-free status went with it, along with the fashionable crowd. The decayed grandeur of today still has much to offer and slowly Tangier is regaining its splendor as an attractive tourist destination.

Grand Socco: Socco means Souk in Spanish and it is named so due to its Spanish heritage. A Souk is a market to us and is an interesting place to watch passing Rif people in colourful costumes selling vegetables and fresh mint. It begins at a busting square and the medina is entered from the square, through a large arched entrance.

American Lagation Museum: is located in the middle of the medina. It is an American cultural centre, museum and conference venue, as well as a library. The museum is housed in the American Embassy, built in 1777 when Morocco became the first power to recognize the USA as an independent country!

Kasbah: dates back to the 17th century and it is interesting to wonder through its little alleyways, patios and hidden terraces. The Kasbah Mosque boasts an unusual octagonal minaret.

Sultan’s Gardens, Rue Riad Sultan, just north of the Kasbah Mosque, are a pleasant place to visit and watch the local craftsmen at work while sipping mint tea and enjoying views across the Straits of Gibraltar to Tarifa on the Spanish coast, only 14.5 Km away.

Dar el Makhzen: This is a 17th century palace containing and impressive collection of art from all regions of Morocco.

Forbes Museum: This is located in the Marshan Villa district, about 20 minutes walk from the medina. The museum is the former palace of United States multi-millionaire and media magnate, Malcolm Forbes. The house is open to the public and houses Forbes’ collection of 8,000 miniature soldiers!

Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen was first settled by Spanish Muslim refugees in the middle-ages and has retained its distinctive Spanish character. It is just an hour’s drive from Tangier in the Rif mountains.

The medina is beautiful and bustling with craftsmen working diligently and tradesmen selling the usual fare of carpets, leather goods, pottery and copper utensils. The Great Mosque, in the middle of the medina dates to the 17th century sits on a picturesque square with restaurants and cafes.

Asilah

Located south of Tangier, Asilah is a very poplular seaside resort, famous for its nearby Paradise Beach. Paradise Beach is a short taxi or a fun horse and cart ride from the village and is famous for its enormous expanse of unspoilt white, sandy beach.

Despite growing numbers of visitors, Asilah has retained its relaxing atmosphere. Asilah is known as the Artists’ Village and here you can find many locally painted canvases adorning the souks of its 15th century medina. The town is small enough to explore on foot or by donkey cart and is renowned for its great seafood restaurants.

About The Author


Tina Andlaw lives in Spain and regularly contributes articles to Sunseeker Homes (www.sunseekerhomes.com) the Spanish property information website.

Places of Interest in Morocco

by: Tina Andlaw

PART I

A pleasant culture shock awaits you as you arrive in Morocco. It is as culturally rich as it is geographically diverse and cannot fail to impress. Visiting some of its towns and villages and experiencing the generosity of its people will leave you hooked, as I was, by the Arabic experience.

Fez

Fez is the bustling cultural and spiritual centre of Morocco.

The main attraction is the Medieval Medina in the colorful old city, which has been continuously inhabited since the 10th century. It is busy with traditionally dressed Moroccans, and rich with the noise of buying and selling, veiled women going about their work and bell-ringing water sellers.

A guided tour is the easiest way to tackle the buzzing hive that is traditional Fez, but if you are brave, you can negotiate the tiny alleyways, too narrow for cars whilst risking getting lost and then haggling with a local to be guided back out!

The Tanneries: A visit to the souks will lead to a visit to Fez's famous tanneries, where one of the oldest arts in the world is practiced to produce the soft leather do characteristic of Morocco.

You’ll need a strong stomach for the smells given off during curing, while you look down on the fascinating tanners’ yard and its impressive vats of different colored dyes and piles of skins. Open 9-6, admission free.

View Point: The best vantage point over the ancient walled city is from the ruined Merenid Tombs on a hilltop to the east of the city. From here you can see the skyline with its profusion of satellite dishes, and a general mass of palaces, green-roofed holy places, the tanneries, as well as the adjacent Karaouine Mosque.

Moulay Idriss ll: In the depths of the old city sits the shrine that houses the remains of the founder of the city of Fez, Moulay Idriss II. It is one of the holiest buildings in the city. Non-Muslims may not enter, but you can glimpse inside to see the saint’s tomb, which is receives constant devotional visits from groups of women who burn candles and incense.

Marrakech

Walking through the alleyways and souks of Marrakech, particularly in the Medina of the old city, it is easy to believe you have been transported back in time to the “Arabian Nights”.

It is this enchanting mood that brings thousands of sightseers to the most visited of Moroccan cities.

The Medina is characterized by much noise, hustle and bustle with tradesmen and craftsmen going about their daily tasks of cloth dying, copper beating or leather working, as well as herbalists, perfumers and slipper makers.

Snow-covered peaks of the High Atlas Mountains form a beautiful backdrop for the city, although they are often hidden by the heat haze.

Djemaa el-Fna: In the heart of the Medina. It is an irregular 'square' and a hub of action where tourists flock to soak up the busy atmosphere. Tourism, though, has not spoilt, but rather added to the complete picture.

Marrakesh has a modern side with its luxury hotels, banks and streets bursting with motor scooters, while it blends effortlessly with the past of the old city.

Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Youssef bin Tachfine of the Almoravide dynasty, and his son perfected the city by bringing in architects and Andalucian craftsmen from Córdoba to build palaces, baths, mosques and a subterranean water system. The city walls were raised from the red mud from the plains.

Horse drawn carriages: Known as calèches, are one of the best ways to view the city when you are not on foot exploring in the Medina.

Koutoubia Mosque: This is the city’s main landmark and the 69 metre high minaret towers over the labyrinth of streets and markets in the Medina. The red stone mosque was first built in 1147 but it was knocked down and rebuilt in 1199 because it was had not been built correctly aligned with Mecca. The mosque is large enough for thousands to pray in.

Djemaa el-Fna: This large town square translated as “Square fo the Dead”. The square offers a colourful scene and is a magnet performing artists, snake charmers, musicians, storytellers and healers, all vying for attention. Passing tradesmen offer anything from boiled snails, vegetable soup and kebabs to fresh orange juice. There are many cafés here from which to watch the busy scene, and from where you may then visit the souks to find some shade from the searing Moroccan sun.

Dar Si Saïd Museum: The Museum is housed in a palace on the Riad Ezzitoun El Jadid and shows the arts, crafts and culture of the Berber people, including displays of some Moorish cedar wood furniture, elaborate door and window frames and artefacts from every day life in the Sahara desert. Open 8.30-11.45 and 2.30-5.45 except Tuesdays. Admission Dh20

Saadian Tombs: Built in the late 16th century, this beautiful necropolis has 66 lavishly decorated indoor tombs. The central mausoleum has a high vaulted roof which is exceptionally ornate, including carved cedar panels and Italian marble columns. Open 9.00-11.45 and 2.30-5.50 except Tuesdays. Admission Dh15

Around Marrakesh

Oukaimeden: A ski resort in the desert with camels instead of ski lifts! Yes, thick snow envelops the Jabal Oukaimeden mountain peak during the winter months (usually January and February) and it is just a 46-mile (74km) drive from Marrakech. The town can be reached by taxi or car and is well equipped for skiers seeking restaurants, ski equipment hire, and comfortable hotels within a stunning alpine setting.

Ouirgane: A village in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains about 1 ½ hour’s drive from Marrakesh. It is a popular place to visit, where summers are cooler and winters are less harsh. The Berber villages are enchanting whilst set in forests with wild flowers, including the famous rose gardens, fruit trees and streams cascading from the High Atlas.

Essaouira: This popular resort town dates from the 18th century, and is easily reached by bus from Marrakech. The town is surrounded by a fortified wall and faces the sea. The beach is a wide, stunning stretch with pretty whitewashed houses, boat-builders’ workshops and art galleries. Visitors come for the laid-back atmosphere and the high wind that makes it a very popular centre for wind- and kite-surfing.

Essaouira is also famous for its wood carving tradition, mainly using local, fragrant Thuya wood. The harbour is a hive of activity at all times, particularly during the daily fish auction, attracting as many onlookers as buyers and sellers.

Agadir: Is a major seaside resort south of Marrakech. It is new and modern with magnificent sandy beaches. Its “newness” is largely due to an uncharacteristic earthquake that shook the town in 1961, and it has now been re-modelled as a popular package holiday destination as well as a major fishing port. Agadir boasts 300 days of sunshine and a huge supply of hotel beds, reputedly a quarter of the total in Morocco.

Rabat

Morocco’s capital city is characteristically modern with wide, conservative boulevards, gardens and large blocks of flats. The king lives here in a beautiful palace surrounded by trees and flowers.

Despite having a rich history dating back to 7th century, Rabat is a far cry from the hectic backstreets of Fez and Marrakech. However the old part of the city has a Medina and a Kasbah.

Rabat is located on the Atlantic coastal plain, opposite its twin city of Sale, and it is near some beautiful sandy beaches.

Rabat’s Dar Es Salaam Golf Course is world-renowned.

Kasbah des Oudaïas: A Kasbah is a “village within a city” and is a good place to take in the sights of the city. It is guarded by the impressive arched gate built in 1195. The Palace and Andalucian gardens and the terrace gives beautiful views from the Kasbah mosque, over the river and sea. The Palace Museum and gardens date back to the 17th century. The museum houses Moroccan art such as Berber jewellery, costumes and carpets.

Citadel of Chellah: Located in the new town of Rabat, the ruins of Chellah, once a Roman port, provide interesting sightseeing. Just inside the gate are Roman ruins dating from 200 BC, which includes a forum, a temple and a craftsmens’ quarter.

About The Author


Tina Andlaw lives in Spain and regularly contributes articles to Sunseeker Homes (www.sunseekerhomes.com) the Spanish property information website.

4X4 Excitement - Great African Trails

by: Dan Rosen

PART II

Today we publish part two of Dan Rosen's "4x4 Exitement" diary on his Southern African Safari. Read on.

Day 1: Windhoek

We flew into Windhoek on South African Airways' morning flight from Johannesburg. After picking up our 4X4 and meeting with our guide and some of our tour mates, we spent the rest of the day exploring this great little city. A combination of modern and German colonial style architecture, this slightly provincial city is quite neat and clean.

The influence of German language and culture is still very much apparent, with plenty German-style restaurants and other cultural remnants. Although English is the official language, German can be used just about anywhere.

Day 2: Etosha - Okaukuejo

After a light breakfast we left bright and early on the main highway north from Windhoek.

Passing through Otjowarongo we arrived at the Etosha National Park. Before setting up camp for the night we went on a sun-downer game drive. Later in the evening we sat on the banks of the floodlit waterhole bordering the camp, watching the animals coming in to drink.

Day 3: Etosha - Namutoni

A full day of game viewing today, and our first glimpse of lion and rhino not 10 meters from our campervan. What a fantastic sight. At day's end we reached Namutoni, our camp site for the night.

Day 4: Tsumkwe

Exiting the Etosha National Park we headed east via Tsumeb and Grootfontein to Tsumkwe in the heart of Bushman land. The cultural experience of a visit to a bushman village is quite indescribable, so I won't even try. But make sure you don't miss it on your tour.

Day 5: Khaudum

Following an off-road track of deep and loose sand, we head north into the Khaudum Game Reserve. Another day to enjoy game viewing.

Day 6: Popa Falls

An early start as we headed out before dawn for a game drive in the area of our camp before heading further north to Popa Falls. We managed to track a pride of lions stalking their prey, but were not able to view the kill. Continuing north, in the afternoon we visited the falls and the Mahango Game Reserve.

Day 7: Maun

We crossed into Botswana at the Mohembo border post and traveled along the Okavango River southwards to Sehitwa before turning north east to Maun, the capital of the Okavango Delta.

After stocking up on supplies, we left for our campsite just outside town on the banks of the Thamalakane River. We jumped at the opportunity of a scenic sundowner flight over the delta, our pilot swooping down low over the herds of animals heading for their evening drink.

Day 8: Moremi - Okavango Delta

Early morning we head for Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta. The Okavango Delta in Botswana is one of the last totally unspoiled Wildlife areas in Africa. The unique ecosystem is a labyrinth of lagoons, lakes and hidden channels covering an area of over 17,000 square km and the largest inland delta in the world. Trapped in the parched Kalahari sands it is a magnet for the wildlife who depend on the permanent waters of this unique feature. The Okavanga hosts over 400 species of birds, as well as lions, elephants, hyenas, wild dog, buffalo, hippo, crocodiles, antelope and many other smaller animals such as warthogs, monkeys, mongoose and more.

We take our time exploring the wetlands and its myriad inhabitants en route to our next campsite at Moremi.

Day 9: Okavango Delta

More game viewing, this time from a dugout canoe - known here as a Mokoro. We paddled deep into the delta from Xakanaxa spying all manner of water-bound species on the way - hippos, gigantic crocodiles and more. Shades of Tarzan! Mind boggling to see these animals so close.

Day 10: Chobe

After an early breakfast we hit the road again. (Never short of food on this trip!)

Heading north to the Mababe Depression, we entered Chobe National Park at the Mababe gate. A major feature of Chobe National Park is its elephant population. These herds comprise what is probably the largest surviving continuous elephant population, currently estimated at a totals of some 120,000 elephants. They are also the largest of African elephants, but their tusks are brittle so there are not many huge tuskers among them. The elephant population has built up steadily in recent years and has largely escaped the illegal ivory hunters of the 1970s and 80s.

The herds are migratory, making seasonal movements of up to 200 kms from the Chobe and Linyati rivers where they concentrate in the dry season to the pans in the southeast to which they migrate during the wet season.

After an extremely pleasant day of game watching we moved on to our campsite at Savuti. The Chobe river valley practically swarms with elephants. Most of the day they are scattered around the hillsides surrounding the valley, and as the sun begins to sink towards the horizon, they descend to the valley in their hundreds to swim, roll in the mud, eat and socialise. After pitching camp in the late afternoon we moved down to the riverbed to await the arrival of our elephant friends for their evening sundowner. We didn't have too long to wait. They were soon crossing the river in droves, in both directions. This carried on for an hour or two, until both banks were liberally covered in elephants of all sizes, from this year's calves through to a few who must have been upwards of 50 years of age. Can you picture this? It was happening right in front of us! Absolutely amazing.

Day 11: Chobe

The memories of last night's elephant lingers on into the early morning .....

Today we were awakened by the unique waking of a Fish Eagle perched on the tree behind our campervan. What can beat that? We traveled further north through the Chobe Forest Reserve to Ihaha. We saw ample game along the way - warthogs and waterbuck predominate. At days end we camp on the Chobe River bank after a game drive along the river.

Day 12: Victoria Falls - Lodge

Our final day here in the wild - and we're on our way to the smoke that thunders - or Vic Falls, discovered by David Livingstone back in 1855.

We cover the 130 kms in 4 hours and arrive at the falls at noon. Not much seems to have changed here since Livingstone's time. The falls are a national heritage sight and so are relatively uncommercialized. We quickly returned our vehicles to the depot and made a beeline for our lodge and a nice long bath. What a luxury! The rest of the day and most of the next we spent absorbing the grandeur of the falls, and finally headed to the airport to catch our plane back to Johannesburg and civilization.

If you're after hardcore Africa - this West African Safari is definitely the ULTIMATE African experience!

Get more out-of the way travel ideas at www.campertrails.com

About The Author Dan Rosen is a professional traveller and travels several times a year to various countries around the world in search of the perfect travel adventure. He also operates the CamperTrails website. (www.campertrails.com)

Africa's biggest wildlife spectacle

by: Peter Philip

"One of the World's biggest spectacles". Many have so described it. Many have come back time and time again. They have witnessed this mass movement of wild animals roaming free through unspoiled and savage wildness. The air fills with the click click of the cameras tirelessly. You have not seen something like it before.

"Africa is changing at a quick pace and human encroachment into the wildlife reserves has continued to erase the traditional routes. In association with development and changes of the way of life, the image of wildlife roaming free is slowly getting erased. Fortunately, Masai Mara National reserve holds on to its charisma of an open, limitless land. It is one of the places in Africa that yet prides in wildlife concentration and everybody has to see it." Victoria, Washington.

Masai Mara is located in the Southwestern of Kenya, 180 kilometers from Nairobi. World famous for the abundance of wildlife and the remoteness of the reserve implants memories that no money can buy.

The Migration is a recent phenomenon (60's and 70's was the biggest boom) with about 250,000 individuals and gradually with time the number has risen to the current population of over 3,000,000 individuals. Add to it an estimate 1,500,000 Zebras and the result is one of the most magnificent scenes in the world. The massive display attracts hundreds of the big cats as the populations provide abundant prey. The giant African crocodiles lie in wait, patiently, as the big herds come to cross or to water.

It is the Masai community who are not so pleased with the whole phenomenon: competing with the wildebeest for pastures and rear their huge herds of boran cattle to the grasslands. To them it is a big calamity especially because the "wild cattle" transmit diseased to their herds and poison the waters their fetal sacs.

This world famous phenomenon is a circle of life which in simple terms means that there is not a start or an end. Only where the herds are located at a particular time. The big determinant is the availability of pastures. The plains of Ngorongoro Conservation Area in Serengeti are a favored spot as grass abounds and the wildebeest find as safe place to graze. It's also here that over 500,000 new calves are born and many are taken by the nearby waiting Jackals or Hyenas.

Survivors have little time to strengthen their legs as soon after the pilgrim continues in April. By then, the rains are over in southern Serengeti and the plains have dried up. The great herds then gather and face the long march northwards and westwards. The natural lawn mowers abandon the exhausted grasslands of southern Serengeti to head for the already tall grass of the Western Corridor, near the shores of Lake Victoria. The pioneers of the migration movement are the majestic herds of zebras as they prefer the long stems of the coarse grass. This way they leave behind them shorter grass to the wildebeests.

In late June to July the mass starting pouring into the Kenya Masai Mara reserve where fresh, tender and mineral-rich grass is already waiting. Here they meet the resident Mara populations which add up to about 150,000. Also commonly referred to as the Loita plains herds, they spend most the season northeast of the Mara. When it gets dry they pour into the interior of the Mara in search of greener pastures.

The migrating herds spend roughly 3 to 31/2 months in the Mara crossing through Sand River which is a tributary of the Mara along the boundary of Kenya and Tanzania. They trek westwards and across the Mara river and sometimes the Talek river. Usually around this time heavy rains on the Mau Escarpment (origin of Mara River) fill the Mara river to the brim. This is a good time to watch the trunk-looking crocodiles while they await the forthcoming feast.

Finally they jump into the river and this gregarious coordinated behavior of the herds, sometimes teamed with zebras, creates an unimaginable scene. Usually they wander along the river looking for a convenient crossing point. This is usually a moment filled with tension for both the gnus and the audience. They survey for a convenient crossing point, less steep and with no obvious danger. Finally one takes courage and plunges into the river and magically the rest falls onto the footsteps and in one organized line cross the river.

In addition to the crocodiles, dangers also occur whereby the current of the river can be too strong for some simply getting stuck between the rocks in the river and breaking limbs. This is a direct ticket to the jaws of the giant crocodiles.

Finally the crossing is done and the trek to their unknown destiny (or known) continues.

In the month of October they are already heading to Serengeti where the rains have treated the southern grasslands to lush, green carpet of rich grass. Once again they are heading to the southern plains of where a new generation will be born to start the cycle of life all over again

About The Author Peter Philip is a Kenyan wildlife safari guide. The information presented here is collected first hand from the fields over the years. View their website at: http://www.natural-track.com